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The Portland energy code and rebate guide

How much insulation the law actually asks for on your street, who pays you to put it in, and the two things in an old Portland attic that stop a job before it starts. Of the 64 jurisdictions on this site, 50 publish an energy code edition and 50 a required attic R-value. Every claim below names its source.

Free home assessmentR-value measured, not guessed
Rebates worked out firstEfficiency Maine tiers, checked
Air sealed, then insulatedThe order that actually works
Cumberland, York & Sagadahoc64 cities & jurisdictions

Maine has one energy code, and a town may only step up from it

The state's code office says that as of April 7, 2025 the code moved from the 2015 editions to the 2021 editions of the International Codes, the 2021 International Energy Conservation Code among them, and that it applies to all new construction and renovations of houses and commercial buildings in Maine. Its residential chapter adopts chapters 1 through 11 of the 2021 International Residential Code, so the IRC's energy chapter is in force with it. A town of more than 4,000 people must enforce the code; a smaller town may choose to, but may not use any other building code.

A floor everywhere, with one optional step up.No Maine town may adopt or enforce a building code other than this one, and a local building-code ordinance that conflicts with it has been void since December 1, 2010 (10 M.R.S. 9724). The one choice the state leaves a town is its own optional stretch code, Appendix NA of the energy chapter: a town that adopts it must hold a new house's whole envelope to at least 15 percent less heat loss than a code-minimum design. On this site, Portland and South Portland say they have adopted a stretch energy code.

The state's code office says the code applies to all buildings constructed or renovated in Maine regardless of the town's population, and its FAQ lists renovations of homes alongside new construction. Meeting it is the building owner's responsibility even where the town does not enforce it. Efficiency Maine adds the history: no Maine house built before June 2010 was held to any state energy code, so the age of a house says little about what is in its walls.

What the code asks for in climate zone 6

Part of the houseMaine code, climate zone 6
Ceiling or atticR-60
Wood-frame wallsR-30, or R-20 plus R-10 continuous, or R-13 plus R-15 continuous, or R-20 continuous
Floor over unheated spaceR-30
Basement wallsR-15 continuous, or R-19 in the cavity, or R-13 plus R-5 continuous
Crawl space wallsR-15 continuous, or R-19 in the cavity, or R-13 plus R-5 continuous
Slab edgeR-10 continuous, 4 feet deep

Those are the 2021 IECC's figures for zone 6, except the wall row, which Maine rewrote for zones 6 to 8 (08-003 C.M.R. chapter 7). Maine's chapter also tightens the air-leakage test a new house must pass, from the IECC's 5.0 to 3.0 air changes an hour at the test pressure (and from 0.28 to 0.20 cubic feet per minute per square foot of the enclosure), adds a dew-point check where exterior wall insulation is thinner than R-10, and asks for an air-sealed wall and door where a basement bulkhead comes in.

What the state code requires

Every Maine jurisdiction on this site answers to the Maine Uniform Building and Energy Code (2021 IECC with Maine amendments): R-60 for the attic and R-30, or R-20 plus R-10 continuous, or R-13 plus R-15 continuous, or R-20 continuous for walls in new work, climate zone 6.

The code already asks for R-60. The recommendation is about the house you have.

Code minimums are written for new construction. In climate zone 6 the 2021 IECC's attic figure, R-60, is the same number ENERGY STAR recommends for an attic with nothing in it, so a new house here starts where that recommendation ends. What the table below adds is the house already standing: what to aim for when something is up there already, under the floor, and in walls that only open up when the siding comes off.

WhereDOE recommendation, zone 6Note
Attic, uninsulatedR60The depth that reaches it depends on the material, which is why we mark it on a ruler rather than quote inches
Attic with 3–4 inches already thereR49The common case in an older house here: something is up there, just not enough
Floor over a crawl spaceR30Only if the crawl space is vented and stays that way
Wood frame wall, uninsulatedBlow the empty cavity, plus R5 to R10 sheathing when the siding comes offNew construction figures; a dense-pack retrofit is judged on what fits the cavity
Wall already insulated, 2x4Add R10 sheathing when the siding comes offContinuous exterior board, which is a siding job, not an insulation-only one

These are ENERGY STAR's recommendations for retrofitting existing wood-framed houses in zone 6, which it bases on the 2021 IECC table. All three counties on this site are in IECC climate zone 6A, cold.

What an insulated attic is made of

The code sets the number. These are the layers that deliver it, numbered from the top.

123456
  1. Baffles — keep soffit air moving over the insulation, not through it.
  2. Blown-in insulation — fiberglass or cellulose, blown to a depth marked on a ruler at the hatch.
  3. Existing insulation — measured and photographed before anything is added.
  4. Air sealing — top plates, wire holes, chases and the hatch sealed before any insulation goes in.
  5. Ceiling joists — the frame the attic floor is built on.
  6. Drywall ceiling — the ceiling plane the heat is trying to get through.

The climate the numbers are built for

FigureNumberWhat it drives
Climate zoneZone 6A, coldEvery R-value in the state code's table, in all three counties
Heating degree days6,795How hard the furnace works. Base 65°F, 1991–2020 normals at Portland International Jetport
Cooling degree days447Why an under-insulated attic costs you in July as well as January
Nights at or below freezing144.1Condensation on the cold side of the insulation
Days that never rise above freezing40.7Snow stays put on the roof; heat leaking into the attic melts it from below (Efficiency Maine)

Those are NOAA's figures, printed as published. The heating degree days say how long the furnace, boiler or heat pump runs; the freezing nights say how often snow sits on a roof over an attic that may be leaking heat into it. Efficiency Maine's answer to the ice dams that follow is not a roofer but the attic: seal its air leaks and add insulation.

Who pays you to do it

Every Maine home has the same program to ask about, because Efficiency Maine pays the insulation and air sealing rebates statewide rather than through the electric company. Its table applies to upgrades completed on or after October 1, 2026, and it says its incentives are subject to change or termination, so the amounts below are its published figures, not a promise.

Insulation, per zoneLow incomeModerate incomeAny income
Attic, wall or basement zone, 250–499 sq ft insulated$2,000$1,500$1,000
Attic, wall or basement zone, 500 sq ft or more$4,000$3,000$2,000
Mobile home underbelly, 500 sq ft or more$5,000$4,000$3,000
Air sealing, per zoneLow incomeModerate incomeAny income
All accessible attic air leaks sealed$300$225$150
All accessible basement or underbelly air leaks sealed$200$150$100
Air sealing in the living space, doors and windows included$100$75$50
The checklist sets the starting line, not just the finish.Efficiency Maine's checklist (dated 9/29/2026) pays on an attic only where the existing insulation is no better than R-21, and the open attic has to be blown to at least R-49; a wall or basement qualifies only where it starts at R-5 or less. Foundation walls are insulated from at least two feet below grade up to the underside of the first floor, sill and band joist included, with at least two inches of rigid board or closed-cell foam. The vendor also runs a blower door test before and after, unless a wood or pellet stove in use or a safety problem prevents it.

Efficiency Maine also offers home energy loans for insulation and air sealing, installed by the same registered vendors; a project does not need a rebate to qualify, and the current terms are on its loan page.

If the plan is to heat the house with heat pumps afterward, that is a separate Efficiency Maine program: for a home that will use heat pumps as its main heat, $9,000, $6,000 or $3,000 for a ducted whole-home system by income tier, or $3,000, $2,000 or $1,000 per eligible outdoor unit for other whole-home systems, plus a $500 bonus per home on eligible upgrades completed and claimed from March 1 through December 31, 2026. We insulate and air seal; we do not install heat pumps.

If the household income qualifies, the work can be free rather than discounted, through the Weatherization Assistance Program that MaineHousing funds. It is run county by county:

That is a different queue from a paid job, and worth checking before anyone quotes you.

The one a lot of contractors are still quoting is gone.The federal 25C Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit ended for work placed in service after December 31, 2025, so a Maine homeowner insulating an attic in 2026 cannot claim it. Work placed in service on or before December 31, 2025 is still claimed on that year's tax return. If somebody is still selling you an attic on the strength of a 30% federal credit, that is worth knowing before you sign.

The two things that stop an old attic job

Vermiculite

EPA describes vermiculite insulation as "a pebble-like, pour-in product" that is "usually gray-brown or silver-gold in color." EPA says a mine near Libby, Montana "was the source of over 70 percent of all vermiculite sold in the United States from 1919 to 1990" and that "the vermiculite from Libby was contaminated with asbestos."

What the EPA says to do about itLeave it undisturbed. Do not try to remove it yourself. Do not store things in, or let children play in, an attic that has it. And hire a professional asbestos contractor before any work that would disturb it. The EPA's position is to assume it contains asbestos rather than to test for it.

Maine's own rule is stricter than the federal one. The federal asbestos rule leaves out houses of four or fewer units, but the Maine Department of Environmental Protection says that once asbestos-containing material of more than 3 square or linear feet is going to be disturbed, it has to be removed or repaired by professionals unless its regulations specifically exempt it. The homeowner exemption its asbestos page names is an owner-occupied single-family home's own asbestos siding, not attic insulation. So ask the DEP's asbestos program before anyone touches vermiculite. Nothing new gets blown on top of it, and taking it out is a job for an abatement contractor, not for us.

Knob-and-tube wiring

Knob-and-tube wiring changes the job.The National Electrical Code does not allow concealed knob-and-tube wiring in hollow walls, ceilings or attics insulated with loose, rolled or foamed-in-place insulation that surrounds the wires (Article 394, section 394.12). Efficiency Maine holds rebated work to the same line: its Weatherization Requirements Checklist asks the installer to certify that knob-and-tube in the insulated space was not there, was removed or was found to be inactive. Live circuits get rewired or shut off before anything is blown over them.

It reads like an insulation rule and is an electrical one, which is why an electrician settles it before the insulation crew is booked. In a house built before the war it is worth checking before you take any quote seriously.

Permits: what this metro actually publishes

Of the 64 towns and cities on this site, only six publish a rule that reaches an insulation job. New Gloucester lists insulation as maintenance with no permit fee, Bridgton lets it go ahead without a permit inside a building's existing footprint, and Baldwin needs no permit for improvements with no structural change under $25,000. Wells goes the other way: its permit guide names insulation among the work that needs one. Phippsburg and Kittery set dollar lines instead, a permit for most work over $1,000 and $2,000.

Everywhere else, the honest answer is that the city publishes no answer. We confirm it with the department before starting and pull whatever is required. Your city's page says exactly what that city publishes and nothing more.

Who licenses insulation contractors

Maine does not license insulation contractors, or home contractors of any kind. The Attorney General's office says general contractors and the building trades are not licensed or regulated in Maine, and the notice it requires on every home construction contract over $3,000 is headed “Contractors Are Not Licensed.” What the law gives you instead is the contract: insulation or air sealing worth more than $3,000 is home construction work, so it needs a written contract signed by both sides, with start and completion dates, the total price, no more than one-third down, the statutory warranty and a written change-order rule (10 M.R.S. §§ 1486–1490). If you sign at home after a visit or call you did not ask for, you can cancel in writing within three business days, and work that becomes part of the house may not start until that time has passed (32 M.R.S. §§ 4663–4664-A). The Attorney General's Consumer Protection Division (1-800-436-2131) can tell you whether a contractor has drawn consumer complaints.

What matters more for the rebate is Efficiency Maine's own list. It pays only on work by a Residential Registered Vendor, and it says its registered vendors are certified by the Building Performance Institute. Its vendor locator shows who is on the list.

The work itself, one page per job

The code and the rebates decide the target; how the work is done is on each service page: attic insulation, spray foam insulation, crawl space insulation, basement insulation, garage insulation, insulation removal, home energy assessment, wall insulation and air sealing.

Municipal research 2026-10-24; energy code, rebate and climate research 2026-10-24. Rebate amounts carry the program year they were published under. Sources: maine.gov (2) · efficiencymaine.com (2, 3, 4) · irs.gov (2) · energystar.gov · ncei.noaa.gov · epa.gov · berkeleyca.gov. These change; confirm with the office or the utility first.

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